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  #11  
Old 11-07-2009, 09:50 PM
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armi0024 armi0024 is offline
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Guess I need to find schematics so I can rebuild mine
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2009, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p1899m View Post
cdjump has a good list of things to check although I disagree with him on the big caps on the power brick. I've seen enough spy hunters with a loud hum that work perfectly otherwise where the problem is those caps. If I were trouble shooting this SH the first two things I would look at would be wiring issues or those caps.
if the hum was constant, i'd look at the filter caps as well, but, being that its intermittent i doubt they're the problem.
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Games: Working: 720°, Tron, Baby Pac-man, Spy Hunter, Punch-Out, Cherry Master 96, Galaga 60-1, Scratch built mame cab, Multi cabs: Popeye bootleg, 10 yard fight, Moon Patrol, and Kung Fu Master in a conversion cab. Pole 1 cab - Final Lap 2 (linked). Pole 2 cab - Pole Position 1, Pole Position 2, Great 1000 mile rally, Top Speed, and Final Lap 2 (linked to Pole 1 cab).
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:39 PM
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Smile thanks

thanks for the suggestions, I will see if i can understand the power supply a bit more electrically to see what may be an issue.

Didnt think about the battery as having to do with maintaining calibration, but that would make sense.

Previous owner replaced the original battery with a cordless phone battery, but I know its not holding but a couple of days...

what I ended up doing to make the game playable, is calibrate steering to be off by two ticks at idle, where it is centered when pedal is fully depressed.

I play the game with the pedal mostly 3/4 to fully down, so it works out OK.

P.S. There is a way to easily break the record at will, if you have patience...
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  #14  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:45 PM
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for a simple fix on the caps, Bob Roberts has MCR repair items... if you don't want to figure it all out from Mouser.
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2009, 06:08 PM
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Viggen,

> Previous owner replaced the original battery with a cordless phone battery, but I know its not holding but a couple of days...

Spend $6 on a new cordless phone battery. Mine has lasted MONTHS w/o a charge. Just replace it every year or two depending on how often you run the game. And make sure it's not mounted ON the linear power board.

> I play the game with the pedal mostly 3/4 to fully down, so it works out OK.

Then your gas pedal pot is probably no good. You should get a high end return value of around 20 or 21 in the gas pedal calibration screen with the pedal fully down.

Edit: I kept the old cordless phone that takes the batteries that I put in the SH game. I charge the cordless phone battery to 100% in the phone before I put the battery in the game.
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Last edited by demogo; 11-13-2009 at 07:15 PM.
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  #16  
Old 11-13-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
P.S. There is a way to easily break the record at will, if you have patience...
and thats considered cheating. Well known bug. It works well until the heli comes and bombs the crap out of you. Good for getting through the icy roads though.
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Games: Working: 720°, Tron, Baby Pac-man, Spy Hunter, Punch-Out, Cherry Master 96, Galaga 60-1, Scratch built mame cab, Multi cabs: Popeye bootleg, 10 yard fight, Moon Patrol, and Kung Fu Master in a conversion cab. Pole 1 cab - Final Lap 2 (linked). Pole 2 cab - Pole Position 1, Pole Position 2, Great 1000 mile rally, Top Speed, and Final Lap 2 (linked to Pole 1 cab).
No cabs were harmed in the making of the multi's.

I've met Bob Roberts, and many of you haven't.
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