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  #21  
Old 11-06-2009, 07:51 PM
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Thanks ted... FYI GUYS before you slam ted for making a profit or whatever i knew what he paid and still happily paid my $200 for the game...

IIRC this is Nunber 513 or 531 or something like that.. def a lower number one.. like it really makes a difference

TED, do you have a pic of it "on location??" that would be dope!!
damn man no wonder it was so beat.. poor thing... its gonna live now...

The real sucky part will be trying to move this into the house and down the stairs without scratching my new paintjob!!!
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common wells gardner k7000 pattern failures and fixes can be found here: http://www.arcade-collectors.com/showthread.php?t=137

Last edited by cadillacman; 11-09-2009 at 08:30 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2009, 03:26 AM
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That is awesome, I wish I had a tron
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2009, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlavaDave View Post
That is awesome, I wish I had a tron
I wish I could get the money, time, and motivation to restore mine... I've got too many project machines... but atleast they're safe here and not falling apart any more.

I always love watching a Tron restoration. There are soooooo damned many small details on these things. Paint, side art, inner art, CPO, shroud art (usually having to buff scratches out of those too), MCP translight, spinner art, joystick insert, uppper CP plexi, lower CP plexi, 4 different light bulbs (standard marquee light, a good high K daylight for behind the translight, a black light, and a white tube black light), and an un-Godly ammount of t-molding. And that's AFTER you finally get the boardsets working and stable.

Granted, I know there are machines that are more work to restore, but not many...
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2009, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaWolf View Post
Nice job buddy!!
This is the $50 tron I picked up with my $50 pac man on craigs list here in chicago .
I did the same to the pac man that he did to the tron . I already had a great shape tron
and so decided to part with it .

Its a very low nuber like 113 ? or somthing
This was at a drive in movie theater at the end of its life
Glad you gave it the love it need and deserved
You have done a great job, I almost feel bad for passing on both of these games...(almost)
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2009, 08:24 AM
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yeah im on hold now its all small bs details like plastics replacement or touchup, im waiting on my buddy to help me with ther back door build as the one has a funky angle to it...

someyear lol
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common wells gardner k7000 pattern failures and fixes can be found here: http://www.arcade-collectors.com/showthread.php?t=137
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  #26  
Old 11-17-2009, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cadillacman View Post
and the inner art was supposed to be die cut to size and was not hence the extra.. i could take off the excess by the marquee but screw it i like it the way it is... i wish it was taller, i would have liked to run that striped part all the way up to the top...
The inner art looks to be taller than stock, but it could be also that it is sitting farther out and higher up on your cab than stock. The red line normally stops at the top marquee as the line runs just to the inside of the marquee on the cab.

I'll post a couple of pics of mine to give you an idea of what I mean and this is by no means a knock on your work cause that thing looks absolutely gorgeous and has mine beat HANDS DOWN. You did an outstanding job on the cab. I'd buy it if I didn't already have one!

Lower placement:


Uppper (sorry couldn't get the flash to go for some reason)
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  #27  
Old 11-17-2009, 04:51 PM
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yep its high lol... oh well... if i ever do another one ill get it perfect.

it was gone so i had no basis for comparison... just like the side art, i guess i shoudl have done more research before sticking it on...


I still like the sideart where its at... nowhere near museum quality but i saved it and its already getting plays down in the cade with the rest of my junks lol...
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common wells gardner k7000 pattern failures and fixes can be found here: http://www.arcade-collectors.com/showthread.php?t=137
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  #28  
Old 11-17-2009, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillacman View Post
yep its high lol... oh well... if i ever do another one ill get it perfect.

it was gone so i had no basis for comparison... just like the side art, i guess i shoudl have done more research before sticking it on...


I still like the sideart where its at... nowhere near museum quality but i saved it and its already getting plays down in the cade with the rest of my junks lol...
Its not a big deal and I can see your train of thought, following the lines on the outer edges of the artwork with the lines on the cab. That is the logical way to do it with no references. I have looked at my machine many times and wondered why the artwork is offset the way it is from the factory, I mean in some places it really isn't even close.

Besides it does not take away from how freakin' nice that thing turned out one bit. It is an awesome cab and the only people who would notice the location of the artwork are fellow collectors on this forum

You did a rockin' job with something that looked like it was ready for a landfill man. Seriously
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  #29  
Old 11-17-2009, 08:21 PM
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Okay...frickin' noob here. Just picked up a Tron this weekend. Paid way too much for the condition it's in, but it's functioning and has decent sideart. I've already ordered a new stick, CPO and spinner decals, blah blah blah... My issue is bottom rot...I know that sounds like a personal issue, but you know what I mean I really don't want to remove all of the electronics, for fear of not being able to get them all back...or disturbing the machine's mojo and making it non functional. Any recommendations on laying it on its side, or preferably it's front, so that I can replace the bottom without removing everything? I've obviously detached the board that all of the power stuff is attached to (heavy sucker). I'm thinking of just tipping it forward and laying it all on that thin piece of fiberboard that separates the front from the back (reinforcing it first). Anything else holding the bottom to the sides besides those small 1/2"x2" pieces of wood around the borders? Thanks.

Derek
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  #30  
Old Yesterday, 07:52 PM
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the top of the machines flat, when i did mine i simply flipped it on its head literally...


so it was basically upside down. THe transformers etc i unscrewed them from the bottom of the cab and bungee corded then to the coin box brackets to keep them out of the way then replaced the bottom, then put everytthing back the way it weas supposed to be.. take lots and lots of pics first, that way you have a reference when its time to put it back togther.


THe bottom piece attachjes to the frt with a tounge and groove. On mine i used a sharp wood knife/chisel to remove lower part of the groove on the frt panel... that made a L shaped spot for me to lay the new wood onto.... THe sides are also tounge and groove, with the tounge bieng on the frt piece.. On mine i cut that tounge off so the new wood would sit flush..

i do now know how the sides of the cab attach to the bottom, as my bottom and sides were pretty much gone, as you saw in the pic...


Ideally i should have gotten a router and remade the tounges and grooves on the replacement pieces but im a hack and no woodworker so i did it "my way" with construstion adheesive and lots of countersunk screws. It got the job done...


Good luck man!! like i said i have zero woodworking experience and even i managed to hack this...
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wtb: simpsons arcade game(project)
common wells gardner k7000 pattern failures and fixes can be found here: http://www.arcade-collectors.com/showthread.php?t=137
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